Food & Drink
FOOD: Northeast Kingdom
by Lea Faminiano
Deep in the heart of Bushwick, there’s a little restaurant where you can pretend you’re in Vermont. But where?
Answer: Northeast Kingdom.
Situated on a somewhat desolate stretch of Wyckoff Avenue, it doesn’t really make sense that Northeast Kingdom is there, but that’s part of its charm. Once you get your food, you kind of just stop asking questions.
Owned by Vermont natives Paris Smeraldo and Meg Lipke, the restaurant’s food is actually foraged, giving their traditional American dishes a seasonal twist. Chef Kevin Adey creates everything from ingredients that are all locally sourced, organic, and fresh. The upstairs dining area and bar have you feeling like you wandered into an actual cabin, and downstairs consists of a quiet, dimly lit and cozy den. Are we still in Bushwick?
Northeast Kingdom is also open for lunch and dinner, but here, brunch is where it’s at. Brunch is the meal that is generally considered to be a treat, but sometimes, it is an absolute necessity.
And, speaking of necessities: there’s the peanut butter stuffed French toast topped with…wait for it…maple ice cream ($12). Basically a small peanut butter fortress, this dish goes straight from your plate and into your dreams (I’m still thinking about it!).
For fans of the savory brunch, the omelette with cheddar and red pepper is highly recommended ($10, you can choose two ingredients), and comes with toast and home fries. A lot of restaurants lack in the cheese-in-omelette department, but not here – gooey pockets of melted cheese happened, which, to me, is considered to be a perfectly acceptable if not overly welcome occurrence.
Pair any of the dishes with a spicy signature NEK Bloody Mary ($8), or a Brass Monkey ($6, a beer-mosa, basically).
Northeast Kingdom is definitely a trek for some of us, but it’s worth it to check out. Trust me, you’re going to need that train ride back to digest.
18 Wyckoff Ave
(between Jefferson St & Starr St)
Brooklyn, NY 11237